RadiciSome of the best genuine Italian food in London, without a River Café price tag
Being lucky enough to be Italian, and thus having been raised by an Italian mother who clearly and in my totally unbiased view made the best pasta in the world, I NEVER eat pasta in a restaurant (unless I’m in Italy). Which is not to say there aren’t places in London that do it well – pasta dishes at the likes of River Café, Café Murano and Trullo are up there with mum’s, but they’re far too expensive for an Italian who first made tortellini with her dad at the age of eight. But in Radici, I now have a go-to place where I can eat pasta if I want to eat pasta that’s almost as good as mum’s, at a price she wouldn’t roll her eyes at (from under £10).
And what glorious, imaginative pasta. From taglierini with fagioli and pancetta to wild mushroom lasagne, and tortelli with smoked burrata, butter, sage and hazelnuts to proper posh fettuccine with pork ragu and truffle, there is something for everyone on an egalitarian menu where hardly any main is more than £20. The restaurant decor is equally egalitarian, calling to mind an upmarket trattoria in a warm space (literally, thanks to the wood-fired oven) that was once home to the Almeida restaurant. Out from that wood-fired oven emerge perfectly thin and crispy pizzas heaped with delicious ingredients, but also things you would never expect to see coming out of a wood-fired oven, like liver rolled in pancetta. And of course, being Italian, there’s a wide choice of vegetarian dishes and a sweet bambini menu too. I like to think mama would have loved it as much as I do.
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