Positioned between Florence and Rome, Cortona is a ridiculously picturesque Etruscan hilltop village, but one that escapes being too touristy or twee. In the vibrant centre, unlike some others that have partly shut up shop over the years, there are plenty of cafés, gelatories and museums to choose from, as well as shops selling leather goods. Head up hill away from this buzz of life and a wrap-around path takes you to the top of the town, with great views down over the valley and Lake Trasimeno visible in the near distance. Wind back down into the centre, past beautiful houses, porches laden with fruit, and plenty of churches to dip into for history and shade.
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